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| -rw-r--r-- | .gitignore | 1 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 89 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | docs/README.old.from-bzr-repo.txt (renamed from README) | 0 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | docs/which-hex-file.md | 27 | ||||
| -rwxr-xr-x | make | 12 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | ui/rampingios/rampingios-v3.html | 501 |
6 files changed, 113 insertions, 517 deletions
@@ -8,6 +8,7 @@ old/ *.cpp *.elf *.hex +*.html *.o *.old .*.swo @@ -1,9 +1,92 @@ # Anduril Flashlight Firmware + FSM Flashlight UI Toolkit -Anduril is a user interface for flashlights, written on top of FSM (F-word -Spaghetti Monster), a UI toolkit for flashlights. +Anduril is a user interface for flashlights. It is written with FSM, a UI +toolkit for flashlights. -## Flashing +What is FSM? The "SM" means "Spaghetti Monster", and the "F" can be any F word +you like, such as "Flashlight" or whatever suits your mood. FSM also means +"Finite State Machine", which is the type of abstraction used for defining user +interfaces. It is like a flowchart turned into executable code. + +## Using Anduril + +Anduril has many features, but the only things a person *really* needs to know +to use it are: + + - Click for on/off + - Hold to change brightness + +For more in-depth use, read its [user manual](docs/anduril-manual.txt) +for full details. + +If you want to know what changed recently, check the [ChangeLog](ChangeLog.md). + +## Flashing Firmware + +Get the latest updates by flashing new firmware! + +A few things are needed to flash firmware: + + - A firmware ".hex" file. Here's + [how to find the right .hex file](docs/which-hex-file.md). + + - A flashing adapter. The type of adapter depends on which MCU chip your + light uses. It may be an UPDI 3-pin adapter (attiny1616 and newer) or an + AVR ISP 6-pin adapter (attiny85, attiny1634). + + **UPDI** typically uses a "pogo pin" adapter, with spring-loaded pins to + hold against copper pads on the driver circuit. + + **AVR ISP** typically has two parts -- a USB device (like a USBASP), and a + physical adapter (like a pogo pin adapter or SOIC8 clip). SOIC8 is the + least convenient, and is mostly only used on old models with attiny85 + chips. + + - A firmware flashing program. A few compatible programs include + `avrdude`, `pymcuprog`, and `ZFlasher`. + + - A computer or phone. Almost any modern computer or phone should be able to + do it, as long as you can plug the adapter in and run a flashing program. + +One particularly useful guide is at https://anduril.click/ . ## Compiling +The firmware can be deeply customized by modifying it and compiling your own +versions, and this is encouraged. + +To compile the firmware, it is strongly recommended that you use a Linux +computer, ideally running Debian or Ubuntu (but almost any distro should work). +Virtual machines work well, such as running WSL inside Windows. There is also +a Docker container available (TODO: add link(s) here), if that is more +convenient. + +### Prerequisites: + + - AVR toolchain packages: + `sudo apt install gcc-avr avr-libc binutils-avr avrdude` + + - One or more Atmel DFPs (Device Family Pack) may be needed, to add support + for recent AVR MCUs. + + - Download the Atmel ATtiny Series Device Support pack: + http://packs.download.atmel.com/ + + - Unzip the pack somewhere on your build computer + + - Set ATTINY_DFP=/path/to/where/you/unzipped/the/pack + (either in your shell, or in this repo's bin/build.sh script) + + `export ATTINY_DFP=$HOME/src/torches/atmel/attiny-dfp` + +### Building + +Use the `make` script included in this repo. Run `./make --help` for details +about how to use it. In most cases though, you should be able to just run +`./make` by itself to compile all available build targets. Or give it a search +term to limit builds to only a few, like `./make d4v2` to build all Emisar D4v2 +firmwares. + +The compiled firmware goes into the `hex/` directory, ready to be used by any +firmware flashing program. + diff --git a/README b/docs/README.old.from-bzr-repo.txt index a8118f7..a8118f7 100644 --- a/README +++ b/docs/README.old.from-bzr-repo.txt diff --git a/docs/which-hex-file.md b/docs/which-hex-file.md index 380cff9..88cc1d2 100644 --- a/docs/which-hex-file.md +++ b/docs/which-hex-file.md @@ -1,12 +1,13 @@ # How to figure out which .hex file to use 1. Use the version check function (15 or more clicks from Off) to find out - which flavor of the firmware the light has installed. WRITE THIS DOWN. + which flavor of the firmware the light has installed. + **WRITE THIS DOWN.** -2. Look up the model number in the MODELS file, to get the name and MCU type: +2. Look up the model number in the MODELS file, to get the name and MCU type: https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/MODELS -3. Find the newest firmware for that model. +3. Find the newest firmware for that model. https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/?C=M;O=D If the version doesn't include a model number, you may be able to find @@ -20,20 +21,20 @@ the model in the PRODUCTS file to see which version it probably uses: The Version Check function should blink out a series of numbers in one of several formats: - - NNNN-YYYY-MM-DD - Anduril 2 from 2023-05 or later. + - `NNNN-YYYY-MM-DD` + Anduril 2 from 2023-05 or later. It's a model number and build date, with "buzz" flashes between sections. - NNNN: model number - YYYY: year - MM: month - DD: day + - `NNNN`: model number + - `YYYY`: year + - `MM`: month + - `DD`: day - - YYYYMMDDNNNN - Anduril 2 from 2023-05 or earlier. + - `YYYYMMDDNNNN` + Anduril 2 from 2023-05 or earlier. It's a build date and model number. - - YYYYMMDD - This is an old Anduril 1 version. It's just a build date. +- `YYYYMMDD` + This is an old Anduril 1 version. It's just a build date. If the model name isn't obvious, try looking it up in the PRODUCTS file. @@ -26,6 +26,7 @@ Usage: ./make TASK todo Show tasks noted in source code files models Generate the MODELS file release Zip up all .hex files to prep for publishing a release + docs Convert all .md files to .html ... or TASK can be the partial name of a build target. @@ -55,6 +56,9 @@ function main() { echo 'rm -vf **/*.hex **/*~ **/*.elf **/*.o **/*.cpp' rm -vf **/*.hex **/*~ **/*.elf **/*.o **/*.cpp ;; + docs) + make-docs + ;; flash) echo "Not implemented yet." #./bin/flash.sh "$@" @@ -75,5 +79,13 @@ function main() { esac } +function make-docs () { + for md in **/*.md ; do + echo "$md" + html=$(echo "$md" | sed 's/.md$/.html/') + cmark-gfm "$md" > "$html" + done +} + main "$@" diff --git a/ui/rampingios/rampingios-v3.html b/ui/rampingios/rampingios-v3.html deleted file mode 100644 index f72d1ec..0000000 --- a/ui/rampingios/rampingios-v3.html +++ /dev/null @@ -1,501 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01//EN" -"http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/strict.dtd"> - -<html> -<head> - <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width; initial-scale=1.0; maximum-scape=1.0; user-scalable=false;"> - <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/phil/avatar-iphone.png"> - <title>RampingIOS V3 Manual :: Phil! Gold</title> - - <meta name="DC.title" content="Phil! Gold"> - - <link rel="openid2.provider" href="https://www.google.com/accounts/o8/ud" /> - <link rel="openid2.local_id" href="https://plus.google.com/116471799767513262335" /> - <!-- Old one preserved, because some sites use the provider as an account key (bad them). --> - <!--link rel="openid.server" href="http://www.livejournal.com/openid/server.bml"--> - <!--link rel="openid.delegate" href="http://phil-g.livejournal.com/"--> - - <link rel="alternate" type="application/rss+xml" title="RSS" href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/index.rss"> - <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/phil/default.css"> - <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/phil/blog.css"> - -</head> - -<body> - -<div id="header"> - <h1>RampingIOS V3 Manual</h1> -</div> - -<div id="content"> -<h2>Tue, 28 Aug 2018</h2> - -<div class="story-title" id="rampingios-v3"> - <h3>RampingIOS V3 Manual</h3> - <div class="title-links"> - 9:47AM | - <a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Geekery" >Geekery</a> | - - <a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Geekery/rampingios-v3.html" title="permalink for RampingIOS V3 Manual" rel="bookmark">#</a> - </div> -</div> - -<p><figure style="float: right"> - <a href="https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/download/head:/rampingiosv3ui.png-20180807025443-zdamv4ixtu49o7hm-1/rampingiosv3-ui.png"> - <!-- img width="256em" src="https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/download/head:/rampingiosv3.svg-20180807025420-q28902kbav01123w-1/rampingiosv3.svg" --> - <img width="256em" src="https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/download/head:/rampingiosv3ui.png-20180807025443-zdamv4ixtu49o7hm-1/rampingiosv3-ui.png"> - </a> - <figcaption>RampingIOS V3 UI diagram</figcaption> -</figure></p> - -<p>The Emisar <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4s-26650-high-power-led-flashlight-p-932.html">D4S</a> flashlights use a firmware named RampingIOS -V3. (The Emisar <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html">D4</a>, <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d1-mini-thrower-p-922.html">D1</a>, and <a href="https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d1s-thrower-p-926.html">D1S</a> -all use <a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Geekery/rampingios-v2.html">RampingIOS V2</a>.) There's not really a manual; the -only thing we get is the diagram on the right. It's reasonably -comprehensive, but there's a fair amount of detail it merely summarizes, -so I thought a textual manual would be nice.</p> - -<p>The Emisar D4S only works when the head and tailcap are tightened fully. -You can physically lock it out--prevent it from turning on -accidentally--by simply loosening the tailcap a small amount. A quarter -turn will do it.</p> - -<p>Emisar lights are known for their ramping interfaces. Rather than have a -small number of distinct brightness levels, they can vary their brightness -anywhere between their lowest and highest levels, like a light on a -dimmer. The D4S is in ramping mode by default, but it also has a stepped -mode that can be configured to be closer to how non-ramping lights work.</p> - -<p>Each mode--ramping and stepped--can have differently-configured brightness -floors and ceilings.</p> - -<p>The driver for the D4S has two different chipsets. At low brightness -levels, a fairly-efficient but low-power chipset (called a <em>7135</em>) is -used. These lowest brightness levels are called the "<em>regulated levels</em>". -Each regulated level will always be the same brightness regardless of how -much charge the battery has. Above a particular brightness level, the -light switches over to a less-efficient but high-power chipset (called a -<em>FET</em>). These levels are called "<em>direct-drive</em>". The brightness of the -direct-drive levels is directly related to the battery's charge level; the -more charged the battery, the brighter the levels. The light is at its -most efficient, in terms of power used for every lumen generated, at the -brightest regulated level. When the light is first powered by tightening -the tailcap, it will default to this level.</p> - -<p>At higher brightness levels, the light's LEDs generate a lot of heat. If -the light exceeds its configured maximum temperature, it will begin -dimming itself automatically until the temperature drops below the allowed -maximum.</p> - -<p>The D4S has a set of cyan-colored auxiliary LEDs that can be on when the -main LEDs are off. You can configure the behavior of the aux LEDs.</p> - -<h4>Basic Usage</h4> - -<p>The default mode for the light is ramping mode. Triple-pressing the -button (<strong>3 clicks</strong>) while the light is on will toggle between ramping -and stepped mode.</p> - -<p>While the light is off, press and release the button (<strong>1 click</strong>) to turn -it on. It will turn on at the last-used brightness level. (This is -called "<em>mode memory</em>".) Immediately after loosening and tightening the -tailcap (or after changing the battery), the memorized level will be the -light's max regulated level.</p> - -<p>When the light is on, 1 click will turn it off. The current brightness -level will be memorized for future use. There's a fraction of a second -delay between pressing the button and the light actually turning off. -That's because of the way the light processes input; it's waiting to make -sure you're only going to press the button once (since multiple presses -will trigger other actions).</p> - -<p>When the light is on, holding the button down will brighten the light. In -ramping mode, the brightness will increase gradually ("<em>ramping up</em>"). In -stepped mode, the light will jump through increasing brightness levels. -If you press, release, and then hold the button, it will begin dimming. -In ramping mode, the brightness will decrease gradually ("<em>ramping -down</em>"). In stepped mode, the light will jump through decreasing -brightness levels. While the light is changing, if you release the button -and immediately hold it again, the direction (dimming or brightening) will -switch.</p> - -<p>In ramping mode, while the light is ramping, it'll briefly blink off and -on again at two different brightness levels: the maximum regulated level -and the brightness ceiling.</p> - -<p>While the light is off, double-pressing the button (<strong>2 clicks</strong>) will -immediately jump to the brightness ceiling.</p> - -<p>While the light is on, <strong>2 clicks</strong> will jump to the maximum brightness -level, regardless of the configured brightness ceiling. Another two -clicks will go back to the previous brightness level.</p> - -<p>While the light is off, if you hold the button the light will turn on at -its lowest level. If you continue holding the button, the light will -begin brightening from there.</p> - -<h5>Configuration Menus</h5> - -<p>The light has several different configuration modes. Each of those modes -works more or less the same way. The mode will have a series of menu -items that it will go through. For each menu item, the light will first -blink a number of times corresponding to the item number (first, second, -etc.) After that, the light will begin fluttering on and off fairly -quickly. While the light is fluttering, you can click the button a number -of times; the light will count the number of button presses and use that -number as its new configuration for that menu item. After a short period -of time, the fluttering will stop and the light will move on to the next -menu item. After the light has gone through all of the menu items, it -will return to whatever mode it was in before entering the configuration -mode.</p> - -<p>If you don't press the button during a particular menu item's fluttering, -that item will remain unchanged.</p> - -<h5>Configuring the Basic Modes</h5> - -<p>While the light is on, <strong>4 clicks</strong> will enter ramping or stepped -configuration mode, depending on which mode the light was in before the 4 -clicks.</p> - -<p>For ramping mode, there are two menu options:</p> - -<ol> -<li>Brightness floor (default 1/150)</li> -<li>Brightness ceiling (default 150/150)</li> -</ol> - -<p>During the floor configuration, press the button equal to the number of -ramping levels (out of 150) at which the floor should be. To set the -lowest possible floor, click the button once.</p> - -<p>The ceiling is configured similarly, but you press the button equal to the -number of steps away from maximum brightness. To set the highest possible -ceiling (at max brightness), click the button once.</p> - -<p>For stepped mode, there are three menu options:</p> - -<ol> -<li>Brightness floor (default 20/150)</li> -<li>Brightness ceiling (default 120/150)</li> -<li>Number of steps (default 7)</li> -</ol> - -<h4>Other Modes</h4> - -<p>The other modes largely involve multiple clicks from off. Most of them -are not generally needed for everyday use, but they supplement the light's -basic operations.</p> - -<h5>BattCheck/TempCheck Modes</h5> - -<p>From off, <strong>3 clicks</strong> will enter "BattCheck" mode, which blinks out the -current battery voltage. First it blinks the number of volts, then it -pauses, then it blinks out the tenths of volts. Thus, if the battery were -at 3.5 volts, the light would blink three times, pause, then five times. -For zeroes, it gives a very short blink.</p> - -<p>A fully-charged lithium-ion battery is 4.2 volts. The light considers 2.8 -volts to be an empty battery and won't turn on if the battery is at or -below 2.8 volts.</p> - -<p>The voltage sequence will continue blinking until you turn off the light -with a single click.</p> - -<p>While the light is in BattCheck mode, <strong>2 clicks</strong> will enter TempCheck -mode. Instead of blinking out the battery voltage, the light will start -blinking out its current temperature in degrees Celsius, first the tens -digit then the units digit. Like BattCheck mode, the light will continue -blinking out the temperature until you turn it off with a single click.</p> - -<p>While the light is in TempCheck mode, <strong>4 clicks</strong> will enter thermal -configuration mode. See the thermal configuration mode documentation -below for how that works.</p> - -<h5>Tactical Mode</h5> - -<p>From off, <strong>4 clicks</strong> will enter "tactical" or "momentary" mode. The -light will flash once to show that it's entered the mode. The auxiliary -LEDs will turn off (if they were on). In tactical mode, the light will -turn on at its memorized brightness for as long as the button is being -held down. It will turn off as soon as the button is released.</p> - -<p>There's no button press combination that will exit tactical mode. To exit -it, you will have to partially unscrew and retighten the tailcap.</p> - -<h5>Lockout Mode</h5> - -<p>From off, <strong>6 clicks</strong> will enter lockout mode. The light will flash -twice to show that it's entered the mode. There's a separate aux LED mode -for lockout mode, so you can tell whether the light is in lockout or not.</p> - -<p>In lockout mode, pressing the button will turn on the light at its lowest -brightness ("<em>moonlight mode</em>") for as long as the button is held down.</p> - -<p>Another 6 clicks will exit lockout mode. The light will flash twice to -show that it's left the mode.</p> - -<p>While in lockout mode, <strong>3 clicks</strong> will cycle through the various -settings for the aux LEDs in lockout mode. The four modes are, in order: -low, high, blink (on high), and off. The default mode is blink.</p> - -<p>Remember that loosening the tailcap a quarter turn will also lock out the -light. Using the 6 clicks is called "<em>electronic lockout</em>", while turning -the tailcap is "<em>physical lockout</em>".</p> - -<h5>Aux LED Configuration</h5> - -<p>From off, <strong>7 clicks</strong> will cycle to the next aux LED mode. The four -modes are, in order: low, high, blink (on high), and off. The default -mode is low.</p> - -<h5>Beacon Mode</h5> - -<p>From off, <strong>8 clicks</strong> will enter beacon mode. In beacon mode, the light -will blink on and off every few seconds.</p> - -<p>By default, the light will blink every two seconds. To change the timing, -use <strong>4 clicks</strong> while in beacon mode. The light will enter a one-item -menu. During the flickering for input, press the button a number of times -equal to the number of seconds between blinks.</p> - -<p>1 click will exit beacon mode.</p> - -<h5>Thermal Configuration Mode</h5> - -<p>From off, <strong>10 clicks</strong> will enter thermal configuration mode.</p> - -<p>The menu items here are:</p> - -<ol> -<li>Current temperature (every click is one degree Celsius)</li> -<li>Temperature ceiling (every click is one degree <em>above 30°C</em>)</li> -</ol> - -<p>The "current temperature" item can be used to adjust the calibration of -the light's temperature sensor. To use it, make sure the light has been -off long enough that all of its components have cooled (or warmed) to the -ambient temperature. Check the ambient temperature using a thermometer -you trust. Go to thermal configuration mode, and enter the current -temperature by clicking the button a number of times equal to the -temperature in degrees Celsius. (If it's 22°C, click the button 22 -times.)</p> - -<p>You can check the default calibration by entering TempCheck mode from a -room-temperature light. The D4Ss are supposed to go through a temperature -calibration at the factory, so hopefully most of them won't need manual -thermal calibration.</p> - -<p>The temperature ceiling is simply the highest temperature the light should -be allowed to reach. Once it hits its temperature ceiling, it will -progressively dim itself until the temperature stabilizes below the -ceiling. Note that the number of clicks in that menu option is added to -<em>30</em> to reach the actual ceiling. (Thus, you can't set a ceiling below -31°C.) The maximum allowed ceiling is 70°C.</p> - -<p>The default temperature ceiling is 45°C.</p> - - -</div> - -<div id="sidebar"> - <h2>Static</h2> - <ul> - <li><a href="/phil/prompt/">zsh prompt</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/pgp/">PGP</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/ssh/">SSH</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/MTA/">MTA</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/tutorials/">tutorials</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/configs/">config files</a></li> - <li><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phil_g/sets/1671829/">desktop</a></li> - <li><a href="http://www.librarything.com/catalog/asciiphil">books I own</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/stuff/">stuff I'm giving away</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/drwho/">Dr. Who eps I have</a></li> - <li><a href="http://del.icio.us/phil_g">bookmarks</a></li> - <li><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phil_g/">photos</a></li> - <li><a href="/phil/about.html">about</a></li> - </ul> - - <h2>Directory</h2> - <ul class="categories"> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/index.html">Root</a> (143) -<ul> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Books/index.html">Books</a> (32) -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Events/index.html">Events</a> (7) -<ul> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Events/Burning_Man/index.html">Burning Man</a> (3) -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Events/Camping/index.html">Camping</a> (2) -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Events/PDF/index.html">PDF</a> (2) -</li> -</ul> -</li> -<li class="this-category">Geekery (36) -<ul> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Geekery/Test/index.html">Test</a> (3) -</li> -</ul> -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/General/index.html">General</a> (24) -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Links/index.html">Links</a> (12) -<ul> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Links/Slashdot/index.html">Slashdot</a> (1) -</li> -</ul> -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/MTA/index.html">MTA</a> (22) -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Recipes/index.html">Recipes</a> (4) -</li> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Video_Games/index.html">Video Games</a> (6) -<ul> -<li><a href="http://aperiodic.net/phil/archives/Video_Games/FFXI/index.html">FFXI</a> (1) -</li> -</ul> -</li> -</ul> -</li> -</ul> - 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